The Black Kirtle, part 1  

I wanted to create an outfit for a woman who could have been part of the court of duke Johan and duchess Katarzyn in 1562-1563 Turku castle. The outfit I'm making would be something a lady of minor nobility or a wife of a wealthy merchant could wear.

The kirtle is made of fine black tabby woven wool, that has an almost velvety sheen to it. The skirt is lined with dark grey twill woven wool. The bodice has three layers of linen under the woolen upper layer. It's boned with sprouts, since this was as close to reed as I could manage.

The skirt consists of two square pieces that are cartridge pleated to the bodice, but the front is left unpleated. I made the pleats 4 cm apart.

As you can see, the pleating created a gap in the back (not to mention the ugly red polyester ribbon), so I need to correct this by letting the edges loose. Also, the bodice looks a bit wonky here, which gave me a bit of a fright, but after I straightened it I could see that the fit was symmetrical. This is a common problem with corsets or corset like bodices: when you lace it, you can end up pulling it askew. I have one professionally made corset and even with it, I sometimes end up looking like this. This is why you are supposed to let your maid lace you up...

One of the surprising things that happened after I attached the skirt to the bodice was that it became too small! I'm not too keen on enlarging the bodice again, since I already did that once by adding little gores to the side seam. I will just have to see weather it will stretch in use. Another thing I still haven't decided on is the back. Shall I cut it low and square like this or leave it high in the English style? Decisions, decisions...

Underneath it I'm planning to wear a Spanish farthingale. This one is made of sturdy linen. I'll see if I'll add a sixth hoop. The hoops are made of plastic covered cable. I know it's not exactly period, but at least they are durable. If I'll ever make a new one, I think I'll use hemp rope. 

I'm making my farthingale after Alcega's pattern from 1589. Although there are no mention of the duchess using a farthingale herself, I decided that it's more comfortable to have a farthingale under the heavy skirts as opposed to wearing several petticoats - let alone a fur lined kirtle like the duchess did in the winter!